You find a Geberit Twico 1 flush valve in many Australian Toilet suites including:
Argent, Brodware, Catalano, Cotto, Duravit, Gemini, Ideal Standard,
Kohler, Laufen, Parisi, Pozzi-Ginori, R.A.K., Sangara, Stylus, Toto,
Villeroy & Boch and Vitra.
We sell the entire Geberit Twico 1 Impus 250 valve with all ancillaries including buttons, bridge and push rods here. If your button is OK and you just need the body of the valve then click here for the alternate part.
Instructions are below but you can also watch it on our YouTube Channel.
When you buy it from us, it comes with a button (and once you pop the packing out) you'll see the half-moon buttons. Then look inside the overflow tube and you'll find the rods for the button, a green and a black one. Black ones are the bigger one and it goes in the bigger hole. The green one goes in the smaller hole.
What you have to do is to push down one button of the half moon buttons (the smaller one) and then just get yourself a little screwdriver or a knife, and pop it under the lip of the other button, and just lever that up. And it will come out with the rod. Then you can just leverage out the other one. And that comes out with a rod too.
There's a screw head down below. So with a large flat screwdriver, you just undo that screw. And then the bezel will come out of the top of the cistern. Don't try to remove the cistern lid until you have removed this screw. Otherwise you may damage the valve.
Once you take the cistern lid off underneath you should have the bridge, which has the central hole (where the Bezel's screw was in). The bridge clips into the sides of the valve. To remove this you will see the two little buttons on each side of the main unit. You push those in at the same time, quite hard, and then pull the bridge up.
And your final step is to split the valve by pressing in the two tabs near the bottom of the unit and pull up.
Now you shouldn't need to take out this bottom section and that will stay in place. The original one should be okay, as long as it's not leaking. You might also want to adjust the half-float position in the new unit before replacing.
In the main unit where you have removed the bridge you will see the half flush float inside when looking down from the top. If you twist the half-flush float anticlockwise, so it unlocks you can then move it up or down into the position you want, and turn it clockwise to lock back in position. The higher you have it, the less of a flush you'll have on half flush.
Push the new section with the half flush float back into place on the old bottom section.
Turn it around until it's in the right position for the half flush and the full flush. You may need to adjust the overflow pipe on the side of the unit. If you do need to change this then there is a locking system clip part way down that you push forward, and then the pipe is loose and you can pull it up to the right height and then click the clip back into place.
Then push the bridge into place, note that it will only go one way (as there is thicker leg of the bridge and a thinner leg). Make sure you get those right. It will push down like on a ratchet. And it should be pushed down to just below the level of the cistern lid.
Once you've done that, you need to put the cistern lid back on, put the rods in and cut them to size. So with the cistern lid back on you put the rods back in and you trim these flush with the top of the cistern. So you can cut them with a pair of pliers. Where you've cut them the ends won't quite be round. So you get a pair of pliers and you just squeeze up the ends to make them as round as you can. But when you put them back in, the end that hasn't been cut should be facing up for the button.
Screw the bezel in and then push the buttons in through there. Remember there's a correct hole for each one. The green one goes in the small hole. The black one goes in the large hole.
There should be just 25 millimeters from the top of the water to the top of the overflow (not less than that).
REMEMBER, when replacing the flush valve, it is a good idea to also replace the inlet valve. These items have a similar lifespan and you don't want to be doing this job twice. Have a look at our inlet valves, they probably cost less than you expect.
Also, for adjustment of your valve, have a look at our page explaining how they work. This will give a good idea of how to adjust them.
Toilet manufacturers rarely make parts which look the same but are slightly different. Check the photos and dimensions and if it looks identical then it probably is identical.
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So this is typical Australian or New Zealand toilet, called a closed coupled suite. We've got a system here sitting on top of a pan, the cistern's full of water, when you press the button on top either half or all of the water will dump down straight into the pan and flush whatever is in there away.
The way that this process works is that we have two valves. We have an inlet valve and a flush valve. So there's a tap down below, and when the tap's turned on, the water will flow in through the inlet valve and the water level will rise in the system until it reaches a set level and it will stop. Then when you press the button, the flush valve opens and allows that water to flush down.
Well, firstly, with the inlet valve. What will happen is that the inlet valve will start to malfunction, it will leak slowly and the level won't cut off, it'll continue to rise very slowly. Fortunately, it won't come out the lid of the system. There's an overflow pipe in the flush valve. It will start to flow over there, will flow down into your pan and trickle down that and run away down through the toilet.
Unfortunately with the cost of water these days, if you're on a meter or if you're on tank water, that can be a phenomenal amount of money because that water is running 24x7. So that really needs to be fixed up in a hurry.
The other thing that can happen is with a flush valve. The flush valve will start to leak and the same thing, the water leaks down into the pan and away, and it'll cost you a lot of money.
If it's the inlet valve is leaking, you won't hear any noise. So you will only find out by possibly put some food colouring into your system, and you'll see the colour leaking down and out of the toilet. Alternatively, you could put some tissue paper around the bowl and then you'll see the water leaking out.
If the flush valve starts to leak then as it leaks the level of the system starts to drop and then after a while, the inlet valve will kick back in and the water will come back up again. So you'll periodically, you'll hear the inlet valve open and you'll hear that the characteristic hiss of your toilet filling up, especially in the nighttime you'll hear that when there's not much noise around. If you hear that then the signs are that it's a leaky flush valve. Toiletspares.com.au has all the toilet cistern spare parts to fix the toilet. In Australia this work has to be done by a licensed plumber, in New Zealand it doesn't.
Watch our videos at https://youtu.be/lMjyQdi5bI4
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Like the old joke says "Is your toilet running? Then go catch it!" And that is actually wise advice, if you are experiencing a leaking toilet then you could be wasting 5000 litres per day.
Caroma toilets have been in business for over 80 years, starting off in Australia and include the Fowler Toilet range as well. They are known for the first two-button dual flush toilet system.
If you are experiencing difficulties with your Caroma toilet then you might need to replace the Caroma inlet valve, the Caroma dual flush valve, the Caroma diaphragms or Caroma seals. You can find all these Caroma spare part replacement items in our Caroma collection.
If the toilet is leaking it is likely to be the inlet valve or seals, if it is running into the toilet basin then it could be either the inlet valve or the dual flush valve. Although you can perhaps narrow in to which one by listening if the toilet tank is ghost flushing (i.e. refilling occasionally by itself). If this is occurring then it is likely to be the dual flush valve that needs replacing.
If you need some assistance to understand about your toilet repairs and Caroma Cistern parts then see some of our explanation videos at our YouTube Channel.
At Toiletspares.com.au we have the Caroma Cistern toilet replacement parts you need to get your Caroma toilet running like new again.
]]>When the cistern is full, the flush valve seal sits across the bottom opening which would otherwise empty the water down to the toilet below. The cistern seal is held in place by the pressure of the water above. Meanwhile, the float on top of the seal is trying to lift the seal and let the water escape. The downward water pressure is greater than the lifting force of the float, so the seal stays in place and the water remains in the cistern. (In fact, the float is normally underneath the seal. I have just drawn it this way as it gives a better demonstration of the principle involved).
(Inlet valve not shown)
Once the water has emptied into the toilet bowl below there is no water left to lift the float. Gravity takes over and the seal once more falls shut across the opening.
The inlet valve now begins filling the cistern. The incoming water pressure holds the seal shut over the opening. As the water rises the float will try to lift the seal up. However, the water pressure bearing down is strong enough to overcome the float’s lift, so the seal remains closed.
(Inlet valve not shown)
The inlet valve will continue to fill the cistern until the incoming water reaches the correct level and shuts off. The cistern is then “loaded” with water until the next flush.
]]>Modern dual flush valves are usually cylindrical in shape. The full-flush float is positioned at the bottom of the cylinder, as with a single flush valve, and is operated by the full flush button positioned above on the cistern lid. The half-flush float is positioned half way up the valve body and is operated by the half flush button above. Both the full-flush float and the half-flush float are connected to the seal below. They are not however connected to each other and lift the seal independently of each other. Refer to the diagram for the details.
When the full-flush button is pushed down, it raises the float at the bottom of the cistern. This float is connected to the seal which lifts and remains open until the water has drained down to the toilet below. Once the cistern empties, the float drops. This causes the seal to drop shut and the incoming water again fills the cistern (as with the single flush valve described above).
When the half-flush button is pushed down, the half-flush float is raised. This float is also connected to the seal which is raised and remains open until the water drains below the level of the half flush float. Once this float is exposed by the falling water, it drops, returning the seal to its closed position. The inlet valve then fills the cistern to the required level.
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Dual-flush valves usually allow for adjustment of the height of the half-flush float. Check the manufacturer’s guide to determine how to adjust the half-flush float level. Some of them require a twist before they can be adjusted, others have a button on the side which releases the half-flush valve for positioning.
]]>If the flush valve is the problem, the water in the cistern will leak through the valve seal and run down into the bowl. The outflow of water through the leaky seal will lower the level of water in the cistern, until it causes the inlet valve to open and allow in more water to raise the water level. This cycle of leaking out and then filling back up, will continue until the leaky valve is replaced. The common way to diagnose this problem is when the house is quiet (particularly at night), to listen for the stop-start sound of the inlet valve re-filling an apparently full cistern.
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]]>Flush valves are not costly. Once the job is done the new valve will give many years of service. If you are using a plumber for the work (as you should in Australia), then the labour costs will far outweigh the cost of the valve so replacing the seal and then having to have the plumber back soon after is and expensive option.
]]>(If you are unsure as to the make of your flush valve, just take a few photos with your phone and send them to us at info@toiletspares.com.au or text to 0415 614 847 for identification and matching from our stock.)
If you cannot find an exact replacement for your flush valve, you may be able to replace the entire valve with a similar model, providing your toilet system is the two piece, “close coupled suite.”
A “close-coupled suite” means that the cistern unit sits directly on top of the toilet bowl and can be removed by unscrewing the two wingnuts under the cistern.
]]>Fill/inlet valve replacement is a fairly simple operation. First turn off the water supply to the cistern. Once this is done, the inlet hose (usually a braided stainless-steel hose) can be removed from the valve and the valve unit replaced.
Details vary slightly between models so check manufacturers recommendations. If not sure, give us a call on 0415 614 847
]]>People often ask us, is the impulse Imperial flush valve still made or manufactured? The short answer to that question, is no you can't get Imperial toilet parts. However, don’t be disheartened. There is no need to pull out your old imperial toilet cistern and throw it away. Here at Toiletspares.com.au, we can sell you a replacement kit which will upgrade your toilet with a more modern style of flush valve than the Imperial flush valve.
Most toilet manufacturers do not manufacture the valves that go in the toilet cistern. Normally they purchase these from specialist companies. There are only a limited number of toilet valve manufacturers which means that they are very large and stable companies.
Toilet fashions change regularly. Styles, colours, and design are all somewhat fickle. There is far more competition amongst toilet manufacturers than among flush valve makers. Toilet manufacturers are consequently more likely to go out of business.
Imperial was one toilet manufacturer which made its own dual flush toilet valve, the Impulse. Consequently, when they went out of business, people with Imperial toilet cisterns were left without an original replacement flush valve for imperial toilets.
The solution is to install a modern flush valve from a large, established valve manufacturer which is likely to be making the same valves in 10 or 20 years’ time (valves don’t change very often).
We recommend the Bestter flush valve which is high quality, robust and competitively priced to replace the imperial toilet parts. It also comes with a wide variety of buttons in most shapes and sizes for most toilet cisterns.
We sell the Imperial Impulse replacement valves in a kit which includes the valve, the button and a foam washer. The washer fits between the cistern and the pan in a close coupled suite. This is all you will need to do the job to replace the Imperial Impulse flush valve.
The operation entails removing the cistern from the pan. This is fairly simple and is demonstrated in our video HERE:
To purchase the kit, simply CLICK HERE and chose the valve which suits your button hole.
If you have any questions, please don’t hesitate to give us a call on 0415 614 847 or email info@toiletspares.com.au
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